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“People came to try something new that they wouldn’t come back to every night. “Early on, I realized I wasn’t a corner restaurant - a daily restaurant, a neighborhood restaurant,” she says.
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With the tasting menu move, she’s hoping to reclaim some of that luster. The original Dirt Candy garnered Michelin Guide recognition five years in a row and received two stars from the New York Times. Much of that intimacy had been lost in the 2015 move, despite the booming sounds of an open kitchen, silhouettes of flowers painted on the white brick walls, and a clientele open to brussels sprouts tacos letting you know that this still wasn’t a stuffy place.Ĭohen, born in Toronto and educated at the Natural Gourmet Institute, cut her teeth in the kitchens of the late Pure Food and Wine as well as Heirloom - a few of the rare options available to her when she was a strict vegetarian (she’s since become pescatarian) - and has the distinction of being the first non-meat-eating chef to compete on Iron Chef America. “One of the things that people really liked about the little Dirt Candy is that there wasn’t that much choice, and you had a lot of interaction with the staff, and it really felt like you were a part of something,” she says. “Most of our regulars have been with us since the very beginning,” says Cohen, “and when we made this new change, they were like, ‘You know, it’s weird, but this feels so much more like the old Dirty Candy.’ A wine director, Lauren Friel, has been brought in to establish a more robust list, featuring all-women producers, and the whole affair now seems more worthy of both the expansive space, which seats about sixty, and Cohen’s food, which is at once whimsical and deeply considered.
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Dirt Candy moved to its current, much bigger location on Allen Street in 2015, and last fall the restaurant mutated again, switching from an à la carte menu to two tasting options: the five-course Vegetable Patch ($57), or the nine- to ten-course Vegetable Garden ($83). And she’s been doing it for a while now: 2018 marks a decade in the life of the restaurant that first opened at 430 East 9th Street in October of 2008 in the teeny-tiny space now occupied by Superiority Burger.